Harvesting Tradition

In the villages of Neriana, Prases, and Kyparissos in Chania, nature’s bounty tells a unique story. This is the authentic Crete of its people.

When the crowds disperse and tranquillity settles everywhere, Crete offers you the privilege of rediscovering it anew. To experience a different side of the island, one that is more authentic. A side that breathes in the olive-clad plains and small villages of Chania, that carries the scent of rain-soaked earth, fresh olive oil, and wild thyme. In this corner of Crete, you encounter the Resperides, as the locals call their farmers. For them, farming is not merely a job but a way of life. These are the people who endure, their hands weathered and calloused from years of labour, crafting everything from nothing. We found them on a land steeped in memories, carrying the weight of tradition on their shoulders to ensure it will not fade away.

In Neriana village, Mrs. Antonia Nikolakaki and her son Nikos are a living testament to their love for their homeland. She welcomes us into her garden, amidst zucchini plants still glistening with the morning dew. With steady, almost ritualistic movements, she carefully picks the zucchini flowers one by one, as if harvesting something priceless. These blossoms are then filled with rice and herbs, creating a dish that captures the purity and simplicity of Cretan cuisine. It’s not just food; it’s the continuation of an art that spans decades. A few steps away, in his workshop, Nikos brings a fresh perspective to convention. He creates products like avocado marmalade with a hint of orange, blending the old with the new in perfect harmony.

Next stop: Prases. Perched on the slopes of the White Mountains, Prases is a village brimming with natural wealth. Its hallmark: the walnut and chestnut trees that stand tall like guardians of a deep and unbroken tradition. Locals like Nikos Boultadakis and his granddaughter Rania care for them with passion and respect, as if they are an integral part of daily life.

Every autumn, chestnuts take centre stage in a festival that draws visitors from all over the island. The Chestnut Festival, bursting with colours, aromas, and flavours, transforms the village into a lively hub of folk music and dance, outdoor cooking, and generous hospitality. It brings people together, reminding them of their ties to nature. Here, the chestnut is more than just a fruit; it’s the link connecting the past, present, and future of this place.

A little further down, in Kyparissos, the Marakas family lives among the olive trees, having dedicated their lives to their care. Lefteris, together with his wife Ranel, left behind their life in the U.S. to return to Greece and devote themselves to olive cultivation. Their decision wasn’t an easy one, but their dream remains alive – to transform their estate into a multifaceted space that blends gastronomy, art, and agritourism. Lefteris’ father tirelessly worked these trees, even inventing a device to separate the pit from the olive fruit. In their own way, each member of the family contributes to preserving tradition and strengthening their bond with the land that defines them.

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TEXT & PHOTOS : STEFANOS GOGOS / MARIA PASSARIVAKI