Storied Splendour

Stroll through one of the most picturesque villages in Lesvos, empracing its ancient past and enchanting present.

Heading towards Mythimna for the first time, two descriptions linger in my thoughts by individuals steeped in the arts and letters: “A Beautiful Royal,” as proclaimed by the German professor Kurt Bremer, and “Handcrafted,” as articulated by the renowned Greek lyricist Lefteris Papadopoulos. The scene unfolding before me aligns with their observations, illustrating how seldom a place can embody such enduring beauty. A castle crowns the highest hill of the village; hundreds of stone-built houses appear to cascade down towards the sea, creating an explosion of colours between the blue sea and the azure sky.

I ask an elderly lady where to begin, and she says, “Start from our pride, our mediaeval castle. Ascend through the shade. Whichever path you take will lead you there; you won’t get lost.” Ascending, I pass through its three successive gates, gazing at the grand castle door, the turrets and the battlements. It is the second-largest castle in Lesvos, and one of the best-preserved in the Eastern Mediterranean. It was built by the Byzantines, later restored by the Genoese, and embellished by the Ottomans. The breathtaking view of the Aegean leaves me in awe as the Greek and Turkish shores appear ready to embrace each other. Descending towards the village through cobblestone alleys and blooming courtyards, glimpsing the sea occasionally, I navigate the market’s narrow streets and traditional shops. I observe dozens of fountains made of rough red and brown stone with embossed inscriptions – remnants from Ottoman times. I am captivated by the hanging balconies of the houses. I pause at a café, enjoying a piece of exquisite baklava from the local women’s cooperative. An elderly man engages in conversation, saying, “The ancient city was initially called Mythimna, after the daughter of King Macareus. The Gattilusi Genoese rulling family changed its name to Molyvos. Some say they named it after the abundance of mineral lead, while others attribute it to the Frankish designation, Μont d'olives – the mountain of olive trees.”

I continue my stroll through the market, with my first stop being the Historical Public Library, housed in one of the most beautiful buildings in Molyvos. It boasts around 20,000 volumes of print and audiovisual material – a vast ocean of knowledge and history. A little further down, a deadend alley with stairs leads to the Hamam, one of the most significant structures preserved from the Ottoman period. Next in line is the church of Agios Panteleimon, featuring the miraculous icon of Agia Anna. Constructed in 1844, it is a masterpiece by artisan Stratis Karekos.

Further along, I visit the Komninakis-Krallis Mansion, adorned with magnificent frescoes and ceiling paintings from the 18^th century, housing a branch of the School of Fine Arts, and the Giannakos Mansion, one of the most beautiful in Lesvos. Its multi-talented owner, Dora Giannakou-Parisi, is a skilled cook and a true artist, crafting unique traditional dolls that bear the UNESCO seal. My stroll wouldn’t be complete without mentioning the Municipal Art Gallery, which houses works by great artists such as Chalepas, Tsarouchis, and Mytaras.

Before reaching the charming little harbour with its fish tavernas redolent of the sea and an ouzo carafe, I encounter two notable figures: Vasilis Titirekis, the president of O Molyvos (a cultural association of traditional dances), an organisation that holds exceptional festivals each year, featuring dancing groups from every corner of Greece. Then I encounter Stelios Kouniaris, a self-taught painter otherwise known as “modern Theophilos,” (a reference to the Greek folk artist), as those familiar with his marvellous works call him. Twilight descends, and everything glows – the streets, the churches, the castle, the saltworks, the boats, and above all, the people.

______________________________________
TEXT : ROMINA XYDA
PHOTOS : PERIKLES MERAKOS