The Northern Miracle

Located at the southern edge of Florina prefecture at an altitude of 1,350 metres on Mount Vitsi, Nymfaio looks if it were dreamed up by a storyteller.

Named Nymfaio in 1927, it has also been called Neveska or Nivesta in the Vlach tongue, meaning bride –white and beautiful– or the unseen (Ni vista), as it is nestled in a place out of sight and in snow (Nives sta). It was first settled in 1385 by Vlach nomads who, over the years, prospered, working with gold and silver and turning the area into the largest centre for silversmithing in the Balkans.

They travelled, traded in tobacco and cotton, and became wealthy. Some benefactors returned home and donated to their community. They also brought the renowned stone masons of Northern Epirus, to build roads, churches, schools, and magnificent tall mansions. Many of these buildings still stand, bearing witness to their former glory. Having fallen into decline after 1930, thankfully, they have been revived over the last 30 years. In 1978, a decree designated Nymfaio as a Preserved Traditional Settlement. Today, it is listed by UNESCO among the ten most beautiful villages in Europe – deservedly so.

Everything here, from the arched wooden bridge at the village entrance to the houses, squares, well-preserved mansions with galvanised metal roofs to facilitate the sliding of snow, cobbled alleys, and the dense beech forest surrounding it, feels as though painted by a master artist. Such an impression grows stronger in winter with the first snowfall and mists wrapping everything in a fine magical haze.

Nymfaio, as a mountain destination, lacks a vibrant nightlife and appeals mainly to travellers, romantics, outdoor enthusiasts, and those who love history, architecture, tradition, and fine wine. The renowned winemaking region of Amyntaio is just a stone’s throw away.

A historical journey through the village inevitably leads through three key landmarks. First, the Church of Saint Nicholas. Despite being burned down and subsequently rebuilt twice by benefactors, it has stood proudly since 1385 CE. Second is the Museum of Gold and Silversmithery, Folklore and History, housed in a newly constructed, faithful replica of a traditional three-story mansion – an impressive 19th century revival. Among the museum’s carefully integrated exhibits are traditional silversmithing and goldsmithing tools, along with crafted gold items such as jewellery, ecclesiastical vessels, wedding crowns, buckles, belts, and snuff boxes. It also includes rare archival material, documents, original letters from leaders of the Macedonian Struggle, heirlooms, authentic women’s costumes from the region, and various household items.

Third, a visit to the historical Nikeios School with its famed clock tower is essential. It was donated by Ioannis-Jean Nikou, a wealthy tobacco merchant. Built between 1927 and 1928 based on designs Nikou brought from Sweden, the school  –once renowned for its equipment and educational tools– remained closed for many years due to a lack of students.

Today, it serves as a model conference centre for the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki and as an information centre for Arcturos, offering extensive materials and video presentations on the life, evolution, and need for the protection of the brown bear.

The Bear Sanctuary or Protection Centre of Arcturos, a well-known non-governmental, non-profit environmental organisation, is located about one kilometre from the picturesque settlement and can only be reached on foot along a trail through a forest of rare natural beauty. There, within a fenced 50-acre area, the organisation hosts around 20 bears rescued from captivity or abuse or found injured. Guided tours are available, though visitors can only see the animals in spring and summer as they hibernate in winter.

Nearby the village, the placid lakes of Zazari and Cheimaditida, two remarkable and lively wetlands, are stunning. Rare bird species attract eager birdwatchers, while fishermen discover the tranquillity they seek, enveloped by the serene landscape.

In this natural haven, untamed beauty intertwines with human tradition, creating a tapestry of experiences from a world worth encountering at least once.

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TEXT : KALLIA KASTANI
PHOTOS : CONSTANTINOS SOFIKITIS