High up in the mountains

They say it isn’t the destination that counts, but the journey. They must have meant the breathtaking journey up to Manolates, the mountain village in Northern Samos with a view of the Asia Minor coast. The road winds up through a ravine thick with ancient plane trees. The sunlight penetrating their foliage and ivy-clad trunks creates a dappled landscape that will have you feeling like you’re driving through an Impressionist painting. The sea of green in the gorge is hugely impressive, and when you round the final bend and find the sea itself spread out before you, the azure blues of water and sky commanding your vision, you will be dazzled — literally and figuratively. Spend some time on the cobbled main street with its tavernas and artists’ studios, and pop into Emmanuella’s to see the unique ceramics. Take the weight off your feet at Kallisti and sample a Samian speciality (cockerel cooked in wine), and dreamy pies. If there’s some orange pie left to round off your meal, you’re a very lucky person indeed!